fade into you

I’ve only personally visited about half of the locations in the previous post, since in my time here in São Paulo I’ve mostly been busy thinking about the similarities between Brazilian musician Marcos Valle (from hundreds of songs but most famously the 80s city-pop-influenced workout-obsessed Estrelar) and Portuguese musician João Sala (from the band Ganso):
(i) their names (both their first names are evangelists’, and their surnames are half equal);
(ii) their physical appearances (Valle; Sala (rightmost)): elongated faces; blue eyes; dirty blonde hair generally kept at around neck length; respectably scruffy beard and moustache;
(iii) their music (Valle, Sala), which is obviously influenced by bossa nova and MPB but also by the interpretation that 70s Japanese musicians made of those styles, most notably Hosono Haruomi starting with Tropical Dandy: seventh chords, keyboard-centric, lively but melancholic.
Which all — fine, they have common names, and many people look alike — it’s only the fact that they’re both musicians that makes the resemblance somewhat noteworthy. Plus, Valle didn’t even always look like that throughout his life and also went through several artistic phases (interestingly, Sala looks and sounds in his late twenties like Valle did in his forties), and Sala also plays in Zarco — 7 por Sala sounds more like.. Rush? that like Hosono, so we’re playing with many more degrees of freedom there.

But then — what about the freaking bicycles? Valle made a song about cycling in ’84 (Bicicleta); Sala also made one in ’21 (Um Pouco Mais; not his music but he wrote the lyrics) and had already decided to cycle in another non-bicycle-related music video (incidentally, at 1:06 you can see the spot where this happened)! Is this another coincidence — name, appearance, musicianship and musical style, and, unrelatedly, bicycling — or, to quote Scott Alexander, None of this is a coincidence because nothing is ever a coincidence? Is Sala doing this on purpose, guiding his life’s interests to coincide with Valle’s? And if so, how does that affect his psyche? does he regret the choicelessness that this path is leading him to, the dissolving of his free will and identity into a path predetermined by another man 35 years earlier? or has he reached what Ignatius of Loyola called the second degree of obedience: making the superior’s will one’s own, in such a way that there is not just effective execution but a conformity of wish?

(In Tou na Moda, Sala, wearing a black T-shirt with “FODA-SE” written on it, sings (0:34) “também oiço Elis Regina“; Elis Regina sung Black Is Beautiful, about.. erm, wanting to have sex (foda) with a black man, composed by Valle! Is he teasing at this connection?)

I can’t believe I didn’t ask him when we hung out — in Braga! of all places! the Portuguese city which is the main destination for Brazilian emigration and therefore the perfect place for this conversation to have happened!–: a perfect confluence that the universe has set up for me and that I let pass by, stumbling idly across life as I tend to do, lacking the clear example of a life path to emulate, such as the one Sala has. Lucky him.

Later edit: OK, fuck my life. One of Valle’s greatest hits is Os Grilos, whose opening lines are “Se você quer grilo tem / se quiser rio tem“. In 2017, Ganso released their first album Pá Pá Pá, whose second track is… Grilo do Nilo).

Cerveja artesanal em SP

Underlined are places with an explicitly vegan food option. Clearnet (i.e., not Facebook/ Instagram) links included when available. Metro/ CPTM included when within 20 min. walking distance.

Centro / Santa Cecília
Tap Tap (Consolação 455; República)
Central (Jesuíno Pascoal 101; Santa Cecília)
Dogma (Fortunato 236; Santa Cecília)

Perdizes / Pompéia / Lapa
Trilha (Apinajés 137; Barra Funda)
Tap Tap (Turiassu 625; Barra Funda)
Central (Sousa Lima 5; Marechal Deodoro)
Capitão Barley (Cotoxó 516)
Casa Avós (Croata 703)
Hygger (Trípoli 41; Imperatriz Leopoldina)

Vila Madalena / Pinheiros / Jardins
São Paulo Tap House (Girassol 340; Vila Madalena)
Croma (Harmonia 472; Vila Madalena)
Empório Alto dos Pinheiros (Vupabussu 305; Pinheiros)
Tank Brewpub (Amaro Cavalheiro 45; Pinheiros)
Cervejaria Nacional (Pedroso de Morais 604; Faria Lima)
Âmbar (Cunha Gago 129; Faria Lima)
Dogma (Francisco Leitão 150; Fradique Coutinho)
Dogma (Dr. Melo Alves 347; Oscar Freire / Consolação)

Itaim Bibi / Vila Olímpia
Dogma (Urussui 251)
What’s On Tap (Jesuíno Cardoso 104; Vila Olímpia)
Beco da Vila Olímpia (Ramos Batista 409; Vila Olímpia)
The Barley House (Prof. Atílio Innocenti 621; Vila Olímpia)

Vila Mariana / Vila Clementino / Aclimação
Let’s Beer (Joaquim Távora 961; Ana Rosa)
Van Been Tap House (Joaquim Távora 1039; Ana Rosa)
VKS (Joaquim Távora 1266; Ana Rosa)
Gorila Beer House (Conselheiro Rodrigues Alves 1153; Ana Rosa)
Esconderijo Juan Caloto (Gandavo 398; Hospital São Paulo)
Brett Bierhaus (Lilases 50; Praça da Árvore / Santa Cruz)
Capone Craft Beer (Esmeralda 69; Vergueiro)

Viva Tap House (Imarés 594; Eucaliptos)
Flames Tap House (Macuco 90; Moema)
Rivas (Nhambiquaras 818; Moema)
Barcearia (Anapurus 1469; Eucaliptos)
La Fraternité (Jauaperi 1413; Eucaliptos)
SOMA (Miruna 561; Eucaliptos)
Hop & Malt (Iraí 807; Eucaliptos)

Tarantino (Miguel Nelson Bechara 316)

tips for Lisboa

Not exhaustive, you’re an adult, you can look up tourism recommendations on your own. Still, here’s my twist on things.

  • Walking along the multiple miradouros, more or less known – everyone goes to Santa Luzia, but you also have Recolhimento, Graça, Senhora do Monte, Monte Agudo, and Penha de França, which you could all do in a single 1h walk to enjoy the slightly different views. Related:
    • Castelo de São Jorge is great when it’s not too crowded – just bear in mind most of it was rebuilt (sometimes.. creatively) in the mid-20th century
    • Museu do Aljube Resistência e Liberdade
    • As for miradouros not in this direct axis you’d have São Pedro de Alcântara and the top of Parque Eduardo VII (inspiring!). Santa Catarina is meh. If you’re in PE7 go to the Jardim Gulbenkian (definitely) and the Estufa Fria (maybe).
  • In terms of art museums, the obvious option is to go to the Centro Cultural de Belém — correctly, as it is one of the best collections of 20th century art. But the Fundação Arpad Szenes – Vieira da Silva is unique and less well-known.
  • Panorâmico de Monsanto, truly one of the coolest spots in the world, don’t miss it
  • If you go to Sintra, FUCK THE POLICE and try to find the rear entrance to the Castelo dos Mouros via the Penedo da Amizade (though if you don’t the entrance fee is still worth it, particularly at sunset)
  • Explore cool areas such as Bica
  • Reject the stupid 7 hills meme
  • Things that are popular and touristic but cool nonetheless: walking across narrow streets and stairways in Alfama; riding on the 28 tram.
  • Try local craft beer. Particularly recommended are Quimera Brewpub and Dois Corvos Marvila, the latter particularly-particularly if you take the train to Marvila and enjoy the short walk there along l i m i n a l azinhagas
  • Two water-related ones: (i) walk along the Aqueduto das Águas Livres and (ii) visit one of the old water reservoirs – either Reservatório da Patriarcal or preferably Reservatório da Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras, which is beautiful and one of the locations where Limp Bizkit shot the music video for their song Boiler!

my future


If I got tattoos, I would get a swallow on one side of my body and a capybara on the other. Lightness and weight. Grace and clumsiness. Motion and stasis. Air and ground (and water). Feather and fur. Swallow and capybara: the duality of being-in-the-world, the embodied yin/yang.

Blog posts that influenced my thinking

Paul Graham — What You Can’t Say (04)
The Last Psychiatrist — What Was The Matrix? (09)
Sam Harris — The Fireplace Delusion (12)
The Last Psychiatrist — Amy Schumer Offers You A Look Into Your Soul (12)
The Last Psychiatrist — No Self-Respecting Woman Would Go Out Without Make Up (13)
Slate Star Codex — Who By Very Slow Decay (13)
Slate Star Codex — Asches to Asches (14)
Slate Star Codex — Archipelago and Atomic Communitarianism (14)
Slate Star Codex — Things That Sometimes Help If You Have Depression (14)
Slate Star Codex — Social Justice And Words, Words, Words (14)
Slate Star Codex — Meditations on Moloch (14)
Slate Star Codex — All In All, Another Brick In The Motte (14)
Hotel Concierge — We need to sing about mental health. (15)
Slate Star Codex — Universal Love, Said The Cactus Person (15)
Slate Star Codex — Against Tulip Subsidies (15)
Almost No One is Evil. Almost Everything is Broken. — The Copenhagen Interpretation of Ethics (15)
Slate Star Codex — Book Review: Seeing Like A State (17)
Freddie deBoer — Planet of Cops (17)
Slate Star Codex — Book Review: Surfing Uncertainty (17)
Alexey Guzey — Why You Should Start a Blog Right Now (19)
Freddie deBoer — the only way to save reading is by reading (20)
Culture Study — The Errand Friend (21)
Astral Codex Ten — Book Review: The Cult Of Smart (21)
Astral Codex Ten — WebMD, And The Tragedy Of Legible Expertise (21)

‘No results found for “transubstantiate my bollocks”.’

Yesterday I saw an ad on a travel agency window announcing “Disneyland Paris — the best First Communion gift”.
I found this bizarre. A child’s first communion is the ceremony in which they receive, for their first time, the Eucharist — that is, bread and wine that have been transubstantiated, “through the efficacy of the word of Christ and by the action of the Holy Spirit”, into the body and blood of Jesus Christ. The Son of God! The incarnation of the Logos! The Messiah who sacrificed Himself for the salvation of humanity, entering your body! How is that not enough of a gift? How is the mention of a trip to Disneyland not grotesquely, insultingly, insignificant, when compared to that? Worse — as a gift for it! Waiting in a series of hour-long queues and bumping against hordes of obese tourists for the chance to meet people wearing costumes of an anthropomorphic mouse and his best friend, a mentally retarded dog (for boys), or women in various dresses embodying and celebrating both feminine passivity and Ancien Régime class structure (for girls) — as a gift for having had the chance to consume the body and blood of God made flesh?

Tolerate! Or, at least, alienate!

Within the context of the current culture wars, a topic that occasionally comes up is how to interact socially with people whose views you find morally wrong, unacceptable, repugnant. And how to square your opinion of those views with your opinion of that person in another context: as a family member, friend, artist, etc.

As a vegan, I’ve always found this to mostly be a non-issue, due to a quite unacknowledged effect of veganism, though — to me — a much more significant and troublesome one than not being able to eat out at some places or whatever. And that is that being a vegan causes you to view as cruel almost everyone you interact with, including some people you may admire, or feel close to1, or love1. Either actively or indifferently cruel, but at least knowingly cruel. These people, daily, multiple times a day, participate or contribute to the suffering and death of animals, often in front of you, and will continue to do so. And it’s a part of their lives, all this cruelty and suffering and death, one they enjoy and want to have more of; sometimes they’ll have some quickly on the way to work, or they’ll dedicate a Sunday to prepare a lot of it for a family event and post pictures of it on social networks, or they’ll choose their travel destination according to how much they enjoy the local variety of it.

These are the people you live among, sometimes with, and this is what they choose to do: the cruelty, suffering, death. And you have to live with this cognitive dissonance, and over time get used to it, build a certain tolerance for it. So this dissonance and this tolerance are, I think, totally natural to someone who’s been at least a vegetarian at least for a while. The rest of society should learn from us on this as well: if we can do it, so can everyone else. (No, wait, probably not, we’re better.)

[1] Not in my case.

I’m Wide Awake, It’s Morning, I Still Have a Balustrade to Finish, Fucking Kill Me

I’ve dated a disproportionate number of architects.

I used to think that there was something about them that I found attractive: a constant awareness of places and space; a way of looking that is both holistic and attentive to detail, both systematic and creative; a continuously updating, playful, multidisciplinary curiosity.

I’ve since realized it’s the other way around: it comes from them rather than me. With their horrendous working hours, shitty pay, and mistreatment from clients and bosses, only an architect has such a miserable outlook on life that I start to seem like an attractive prospect.

Cerveja em Lisboa


  • Musa da Bica — Calçada Salvador Correia de Sá, 2 (Cais do Sodré)
  • Canil — Rua dos Douradores, 133 (Baixa-Chiado lado Baixa)
  • Duque Brewpub — Calçada do Duque, 49 (Baixa-Chiado lado Chiado)
  • The Beer Station — Largo Duque de Cadaval, 17 (Restauradores)


  • Oitava Marquês — Avenida Duque de Loulé, 85 (Marquês de Pombal)
  • AMO Brewery — Rua Bernardim Ribeiro, 53 (Marquês de Pombal)
  • Cerveteca — Praça das Flores, 63 (Rato)
  • Oitava Graça — Rua Damasceno Monteiro, 8A (Martim Moniz)
  • 21 Gallas Brewpub — Rua Angelina Vidal, 53-A (Intendente)
  • Flor de Lúpulo — Rua Heróis de Quionga, 66 (Arroios)